A Hidden Heritage in the Heart of Khidderpore
Tucked away in the Babu Bazar area of Khidderpore, South Kolkata, the Bhukailash Rajbari — also known as the Bhukailash Temple Complex — is one of the city’s lesser-known heritage treasures. This historic estate once belonged to Raja Joynarayan Ghosal, an 18th-century aristocrat who left an enduring imprint on Kolkata’s cultural landscape. Though much of the complex is now in a state of neglect, the grandeur of its architecture and the stories embedded in its old walls continue to evoke the glory of Bengal’s aristocratic past.
Historical Background: Legacy of Raja Joynarayan Ghosal
The origins of Bhukailash Rajbari date back to around 1780–1781, when Raja Joynarayan Ghosal shifted his residence from the Fort William area to Khidderpore. Here, he built a sprawling temple complex dedicated to Lord Shiva and his family’s kuladevi, or ancestral goddess. The site includes two imposing aatchala temples — Raktakamaleshwar and Krishnachandreswar — each housing a Shiva linga said to be about 11 feet high.
The Raja also built a thakurbari (family shrine), a nat mandap for rituals, and a large pond named Shivganga, harmoniously aligned with the temples. The Bhukailash complex, recognized as a Grade-I heritage site by the Kolkata Municipal Corporation, once stood as a vibrant center of devotion, art, and community life in old Kolkata.
Architectural and Cultural Significance
Bhukailash Rajbari showcases Bengal’s traditional temple architecture with remarkable symmetry and scale. The massive aatchala structures, with their terracotta ornamentation and towering lingas, stand as a testament to 18th-century craftsmanship. The gateways, courtyards, and water tanks reflect a thoughtful layout that balanced spiritual and social life.
Despite years of decay and encroachment, the site retains its old-world charm. Its heritage value has drawn the attention of historians, conservationists, and even the Calcutta High Court, which has recently directed the Kolkata Municipal Corporation to take steps toward the restoration of the Rajbari and its adjoining temple complex.
The Durga Puja of Bhukailash Rajbari: A Tradition Since 1782
The Durga Puja celebrations at Bhukailash Rajbari trace their origin to 1782, when Raja Joynarayan Ghosal initiated the worship of Maa Patitpaboni, a form of Goddess Durga believed to be the family deity. The puja continues to be observed in the nat mandap or thakurdalan within the Rajbari, following the age-old bonedi bari customs — simple, ritualistic, and deeply devotional.
While not as widely publicized as the famous Shobhabazar or Jorasanko pujas, the Bhukailash Rajbari Puja holds a place of reverence among heritage enthusiasts. It is often featured in heritage walks and Durga Puja Parikrama tours that explore the city’s aristocratic traditions. Those who visit describe the experience as one of serene beauty, where the divine meets history in the quiet lanes of Khidderpore.
A Lesser-Known Gem Waiting to Be Rediscovered
Unlike the bustling heritage sites of North Kolkata, Bhukailash Rajbari remains hidden from the tourist circuit — “a forgotten gem,” as author Amitav Ghosh once called it. Few Kolkatans outside Khidderpore are aware of its historical or spiritual significance. Yet for those who seek the authentic soul of Bengal’s aristocratic past, Bhukailash Rajbari offers a deeply moving experience — a glimpse of devotion, architecture, and legacy that has survived over two centuries.
How to Reach Bhukailash Rajbari, Khidderpore
- Location: Near Babu Bazar, Khidderpore, South Kolkata
- Nearest Metro Station: Khidderpore (Line 3) or Maidan Metro Station (Line 1)
- By Road: Bhukailash Rajbari is easily accessible via Diamond Harbour Road and Karl Marx Sarani. Taxis, app cabs, and local buses from Esplanade or Howrah frequently ply this route.
- Landmark: The Bhukailash Temple complex is located close to the Kidderpore Tram Depot and the Khidderpore Port area.
A Living Testament to Kolkata’s Spiritual Heritage
Though time has dimmed its grandeur, Bhukailash Rajbari continues to symbolize the enduring spirit of Bengal’s devotion and artistry. Its Durga Puja, heritage architecture, and deep cultural roots remind us that Kolkata’s soul is not just in its famous monuments but also in its quiet, forgotten corners — where history still whispers through the walls.