Introduction
Every year, as winter gently brushes through the red-earth villages of Purulia, a quiet transformation begins in a little hamlet nestled by the Ayodhya Hills. Charida, the famed mask-makers’ village, sheds its humble stillness and bursts into colour, music, and movement. The occasion? The Chhau-Jhumur Utsav – a festival that is less of an event and more of an experience. A living celebration of Bengal’s rustic soul.
For those who’ve never been, the festival is a glorious, earthy blend of folklore, craftsmanship, music, and dance – bringing together two of Purulia’s proudest cultural treasures: the acrobatic Purulia Chhau dance and the lilting melodies of Jhumur songs.
A Village Festival with a Global Heartbeat
The Chhau-Jhumur Utsav isn’t held in an auditorium or grand town square. It unfolds right in the heart of Charida – among mud-walled homes, beneath bamboo scaffolds, on open grounds lit by flickering oil lamps and fairy lights. Here, the community becomes the host, the artisans become the curators, and the people’s art returns to the people.
For three vibrant days, masked dancers whirl and leap, retelling age-old tales from the Ramayana, Mahabharata, and local tribal legends. Their ornate masks – often made just a few feet away in the village’s iconic workshops – gleam under the soft stage lights as they transform ordinary men into Ravana, Durga, Mahishasura, and Shiva.
The Jhumur singers, with their earthy voices and rhythmic beats, bring a contrasting yet complementary energy. Jhumur, often sung by women working in fields, carries the scent of the soil, the sigh of longing, and the joys and sorrows of everyday life. During the Utsav, it rises as a collective memory – musical storytelling at its finest.
More Than a Festival – A Revival
What makes the Chhau-Jhumur Utsav truly special is its grassroots energy. This isn’t a government-mandated, overly curated festival. It is the community’s tribute to its own heritage. The villagers organize, participate, and welcome visitors with warmth – offering not just performances but also glimpses into the life behind the art.
You can walk into homes where artisans are busy finishing masks for the evening’s performance. You can sip piping hot tea while watching a dancer get into costume under a tree. You can buy a handcrafted mask directly from the maker, and even learn how to mould one yourself.
There’s no VIP seating here. Everyone sits on straw mats. Everyone claps together. The applause is genuine, the smiles real.
A Must-Visit for Culture Lovers
The Chhau-Jhumur Utsav is not a tourist spectacle; it’s an invitation to belong. It’s where the barrier between performer and viewer dissolves. You come not just to watch, but to feel. To understand that folk traditions are not dying – they’re breathing, pulsating, and finding new voices in places like Charida.
And if you’re lucky, you may even witness something truly magical – an elderly artisan wiping his eyes during a Chhau performance, as his grandson leaps across the stage wearing a mask he made decades ago. The circle of tradition complete.
In Conclusion
In a world rushing toward digital glitz, the Chhau-Jhumur Utsav is a reminder of what truly endures – community, craft, and culture. It’s a celebration of stories passed down by song and shaped by hand. A festival where art returns to its roots and welcomes all who seek beauty in the unpolished, the authentic.
If you ever find yourself craving an India that sings in her soil and dances in her dust, go to Charida in winter.
Go with an open heart – and leave with it fuller than you could imagine.