Varanasi, often referred to as the “City of Music,” has been a cradle of Hindustani classical music for centuries. The ghats of this ancient city, particularly Dashashwamedh Ghat and Assi Ghat, have evolved into iconic venues for live music performances. These riverfront steps, bathed in the spiritual energy of the Ganges, provide a unique backdrop for music that transcends the ordinary, offering an experience that is both immersive and deeply spiritual. In this blog post, we will explore the significance of live music performances on the ghats of Varanasi and how these performances blend tradition, spirituality, and cultural expression.
The Spiritual and Musical Legacy of Varanasi
Varanasi’s association with music runs deep. The city has been home to some of the greatest maestros of Hindustani classical music, including Pandit Ravi Shankar (sitar), Ustad Bismillah Khan (shehnai), and Girija Devi (thumri). The ghats of Varanasi, with their deep spiritual connection to the Ganges, have become natural stages for live music performances that reflect the city’s artistic and cultural vibrancy.
The music of Varanasi is deeply intertwined with spirituality. Ragas, the classical melodic frameworks of Indian music, are traditionally performed at specific times of the day and in certain seasons to evoke a sense of harmony between the performer, the listener, and the universe. When performed at the ghats, this connection is heightened, as the river’s gentle flow and the divine atmosphere of the city create the perfect ambiance for these sacred compositions.
Morning Ragas at Assi Ghat: ‘Subah-e-Banaras’
One of the most beautiful and tranquil experiences for visitors to Varanasi is the early morning music performance at Assi Ghat, known as ‘Subah-e-Banaras.’ This initiative was started to revive the tradition of morning ragas, which have historically been performed at dawn to welcome the rising sun. Assi Ghat, with its expansive view of the river and the distant horizon, is the perfect venue for these performances.
Every morning, as the first rays of the sun touch the waters of the Ganges, musicians gather at Assi Ghat to perform classical compositions in ragas such as Bhairav, Todi, and Lalit, which are associated with dawn. The air fills with the gentle sounds of sitar, tabla, flute, and vocal music, creating an atmosphere of peace and serenity. These morning performances are not just musical events; they are spiritual experiences that connect the listeners to the divine.
The ‘Subah-e-Banaras’ performances often include a mix of instrumental music, vocal recitals, and devotional bhajans (songs). The audience is a blend of locals and tourists, with many choosing to meditate, perform yoga, or simply soak in the music while seated on the ghats. The sight of the sun rising over the Ganges, combined with the soothing strains of classical music, makes for a truly magical experience.
Evening Aarti and Musical Performances at Dashashwamedh Ghat
While Assi Ghat is known for its morning performances, Dashashwamedh Ghat comes alive in the evening with its famous Ganga Aarti, which is accompanied by live music. The Ganga Aarti, a devotional ritual dedicated to the river goddess Ganga, is an elaborate ceremony that involves chanting, the ringing of bells, the lighting of lamps, and synchronized movements by priests. Music plays a central role in this ritual, with devotional songs and mantras being sung throughout the ceremony.
Musicians and priests collaborate to create a symphony of sound that complements the visual spectacle of the Aarti. Instruments like the harmonium, tabla, and shehnai are often used to accompany the chants and hymns, creating an atmosphere of devotion and celebration. The music not only enhances the spiritual experience of the Aarti but also provides a platform for classical musicians to perform in front of an audience that includes both pilgrims and tourists.
Dashashwamedh Ghat, located at the heart of Varanasi, is one of the busiest and most popular ghats for both locals and visitors. Its evening performances attract large crowds, who come to witness the Aarti as well as the music that is an integral part of the ceremony. The sound of live music blending with the chants of priests and the rhythmic clapping of devotees creates a mesmerizing atmosphere that leaves a lasting impression on all who attend.
The Role of Live Music in Varanasi’s Cultural Identity
Live music performances at the ghats of Varanasi play a significant role in preserving and promoting the city’s rich musical heritage. Varanasi has long been a center for learning and teaching music, with renowned institutions such as Banaras Hindu University (BHU) and several traditional ‘gharanas’ (musical schools) contributing to the evolution of Hindustani classical music. The ghats serve as public stages where students, maestros, and up-and-coming artists can showcase their talents and keep these traditions alive.
In recent years, various cultural organizations have taken initiatives to organize regular music festivals and events at the ghats. These events provide a platform for both classical and folk musicians to perform in front of diverse audiences. Festivals like the Varanasi Ganga Mahotsav and the Dhrupad Mela, held at the ghats, celebrate Varanasi’s musical traditions while offering musicians the opportunity to perform in a spiritual and culturally significant environment.
Live music at the ghats is not limited to classical genres alone. Folk music, devotional songs, and even fusion music performances are often featured at various cultural events held along the river. This diversity reflects the inclusiveness of the ghats as cultural spaces where all forms of musical expression are welcomed.
The Unique Ambiance of Music at the Ghats
What sets the ghats of Varanasi apart as musical venues is their connection to nature and spirituality. The ghats, with their ancient steps leading down to the river, provide an open and natural stage for musicians to perform in front of a vast and often appreciative audience. Unlike concert halls, the ghats offer a raw, unstructured environment where the music becomes one with the surroundings.
The sound of flowing water, the sight of boats gently gliding along the river, and the distant chants of pilgrims create an atmosphere of harmony that enhances the listener’s experience. The open-air setting allows the music to travel across the water, reaching people seated on boats or walking along the riverbanks. This unique interplay between music, nature, and spirituality creates an experience that is unlike any other.
Many musicians who perform at the ghats describe the experience as deeply spiritual. The ghats, with their centuries-old history and sacred associations, inspire a sense of reverence and humility in the performers. Playing music in such a setting becomes a form of worship, a way to connect with the divine and offer their art as a form of devotion.
The Future of Live Music at the Ghats
As Varanasi continues to modernize, the importance of preserving its cultural and musical heritage is paramount. Live music performances at the ghats are a vital part of this heritage, and efforts are being made to promote and sustain them. Initiatives like ‘Subah-e-Banaras’ and the organization of music festivals ensure that these traditions are passed on to future generations.
The city’s growing popularity as a tourist destination also provides opportunities for musicians to reach international audiences. Visitors from around the world come to Varanasi not only to experience its spiritual energy but also to immerse themselves in its rich musical culture. Live music at the ghats offers them an authentic and transformative experience, one that stays with them long after they leave.
Conclusion
The ghats of Varanasi are much more than just steps leading to the Ganges—they are cultural stages where music and spirituality come together in perfect harmony. Whether it’s the serene morning ragas at Assi Ghat or the lively evening performances at Dashashwamedh Ghat, live music at the ghats offers a unique and profound experience that reflects the city’s deep connection to art, tradition, and the divine.
For both performers and listeners, the ghats of Varanasi provide a space where music becomes a form of prayer, a way to connect with the soul of the city, and a celebration of its timeless musical legacy.
